tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38283933695616267932024-03-05T09:21:11.948+00:00Tanzania TravelsThis is a personal journal describing our holiday in Tanzania. We began with a climb up Mt Makarot; went on to safaris in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro before climbing Mt Kilimanjaro.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-88232696291101241602008-10-19T22:00:00.002+01:002014-02-19T20:19:05.403+00:00Day 19<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We were woken early by bird calls close by. It sounded like geese or hornbills, so out we went <br />
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in our jammies to see if we could spot whatever, flying over. To start with we couldn’t, but then something flew into a big tree not far away. I shout- whispered ‘Peacocks!’ – totally the wrong continent for them, though. When we got the binos on them, we found that it was the Hadada ibis making all the noise, and they climbed up and down the branches of the tree. We could hear a noise in a tree very near to the bungalow. On close inspection we spotted a beautiful bird hiding in the upper branches – and it was a Hartlaub’s turaco. It has very precise markings on its head that look as if they are painted on. It was fabulous to see it so close – but we hardly dared move or it would just fly away, so no photographs, just a wonderful memory! A fascinating start to the day. We showered and went for breakfast. While over at the lodge, they ask us again about leaving, and end up phoning the office and get Alan to speak to them. They still say they will come at 17.30, which reception still thinks is a bit late. But that’s all we can do. We had to get our bags sorted so we walk back to the bungalow. According to the plan we have the room on an extended check, so we leave the bags more or less ready and head out for another walk. This time we turn left and walk round the other way. It takes us past some coffee bushes and more of the plants we saw yesterday. We soon come into the car park by the lodge entrance, where we watch sunbirds flittering about the bushes. At the other side if the road is another track, so we follow that round and find that we have joined up with the track from yesterday. Half way up the hill we spot some amazing birds – red and white, which we discover, are brown breasted barbet and try to photograph them – a rather blurred attempt! We come round full circle and turn down the path back to the bungalow. We decide that a late lunch would be good, and walk over to the lodge. We can order from their snack menu – burgers/ fish and chips, which sounds good. While we are there the driver-guide that brought Alan’s sticks drops by to say someone will collect us later and by the way here is Honest’s business card, which he would like us to have! Then he’s away again. We finish lunch, go back to the bungalow and by 4pm we are ready to get ourselves and the bags to reception to check out. There are plenty of people arriving and some others leaving, so the time must be right. Shortly, a driver arrives to take us to the airport and we bid farewell to the relaxing Moivara Lodge. Kilimanjaro puts in a farewell appearance and we arrive at the airport in plenty of time for our flight, and our check in has indeed happened, so we have our seats. Others have not been so lucky and couples have seats at opposite ends of the plane. Don’t suppose it really matters if you plan to sleep your way to Europe! It has been an amazing experience and we feel very proud of what we have achieved with the help of our guides and our tour company, Go2Tanzania.</div>
laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-22624772281161775952008-10-18T22:00:00.009+01:002014-02-19T20:00:02.643+00:00Day 18A late breakfast saw us enjoying a misty view of the garden almost alone in the dining area of the veranda. Most folk were up and off on their way long before we surfaced. After breakfast we collected our cameras and began an exploration of the Lodge’s grounds. We took the path leading away from our bungalow, following the way to the perimeter of the area. The flowering plants are a riot of intense colour and we spot sunbirds fluttering among the blooms. We decide that as we are to the left of the main building, we should take the right path when we reach a t-junction, in the hope it will lead us around the edge of the gardens. We follow this path out of the planted area into a wild garden and as it rises, we can see the roofs of the bungalows below us. There are sounds of villagers drifting near us, but we can’t see anyone. The path peaks where there are some spreading trees and we see movement. When we finally see what is there, we discover a band of little squirrels playing above our heads. Nearby there are lots of little brownish birds with light coloured beaks fluttering about. These are rufous backed mannikins and remind us of the munias in Brunei. A stream of ants crosses the footpath, which we have to step over.<br />
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Its very pleasant walking through the trees, but we aren’t sure where the path leads, so we eventually take another right turn, which brings us gradually back to the ‘cultivated’ area near the bungalows at the other side of the main building. We come round near to the little swimming pool where there are some stunning flowers. Honest has phoned to say that someone will be coming by after three, so we wander over to the Lodge and have a cup of tea and wait for whoever is coming. After a while, someone from reception announces we have a visitor and one of the driver guides walks over to see us. Thankfully he has Alan’s sticks in his hand. We offer him some tea, but he says he is OK. He chats for a while, then realizes no tip is forthcoming and decides its time to leave. He isn’t sure what time or who will come and collect us tomorrow, but is certain someone will. So the day passes. We change for dinner and sit in the bar with a bottle of wine before wandering through for our meal.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-86892750849833260782008-10-17T22:00:00.002+01:002014-02-19T20:21:57.608+00:00Day 17<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We have breakfast at 8.45 – it is buffet style and there is cereal, chafing dishes of hot stuff, loads of bakeries to choose from. We are quite modest having cereal, juice and bakeries with local jam and honey. There is also tea and coffee. Its great and we don’t need to rush anywhere, so we take our time. The view of the gardens is lovely, even though there is low cloud and consequently no sun. They are growing lots of familiar tropical flowering plants. Sunbirds flutter in and out of the bushes and we can hear hornbills calling. Just to the right of the veranda is a little gift shop, and we wander in to see what they have. There are lots of typical things such as soapstone carvings and all sorts of wood and textiles. They also have bags of Tanzania tea and coffee and Zanzibar spices. We buy some little gifts before returning to the bungalow. Back at the bungalow, we enjoy sitting on our little veranda, reading. There are lots of birds fluttering about, but we can’t quite see what they are. Alan tries ringing Honest about the sticks. He doesn’t seem to know anything about it, but will look into it. He may be coming by tomorrow, although we have said we won’t take up his offer of a safari into Arusha Park. <br />
It’s well gone lunch time, but we only fancy some coffee, so make our way over to the Lodge and order some. The lounge is quite busy, so we take the only free sofa, which is near some folk who appear to be having a briefing from their tour guide. They are off to climb Kili and the guide has brought some equipment with him for them to hire. This is warm gear, sticks etc. There are also some gaiters, which the guide explains they use to stop the scree getting into your boots on the way down. Now we know why we should have had gaiters – we never did get any! (Remember Alan had so much grit under the inner soles of his boots!) At last they seem sorted, but just before the guide leaves, the man asks will the porters be bringing the beer and wine for the week? There is a stunned silence before the guide explains that at higher altitudes, alcohol increases ones chances of mountain sickness – so no alcohol there, then!<br />
Postcards are written and handed over to the desk for posting and we check the internet finding a reply from D. Then we stroll through the garden to the bungalow, which has been cleaned in our absence. A decides to soak in a bath – luxury! I sit on the veranda and gradually the sun appears. There are birds flying around the trees in the distance. We think there is a green parrot, but eventually realize that it is an emerald pigeon. There are also hornbills and maybe a turaco flying around, and the bulbuls sing sweetly in the trees. Towards evening, when we had our laundry back, A spotted a blue monkey in the tree close by. Some crane/goose type birds flew over, evening lengthened and we walked down for a beer and dinner.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-86295473392923943392008-10-16T22:00:00.005+01:002014-02-19T20:23:32.510+00:00Day 1610 hours after we retire, we awake, feeling much refreshed. Hashim has asked us to be ready to walk from 7am – with bags packed and tent cleared. Apparently there is a queue at the gate to check out if you arrive late. As we are slow walkers, he wants to give us plenty of time as well as avoiding this. We are having breakfast by 6.30 and although I’m quite peckish, I still don’t fancy the sausages!
Hashim lets us start out on our own at 6.50 – early, and only a couple of porters had started out before us. For the first hour, only a dozen porters have passed us, but then a couple of climbers come by and we are no longer first in the queue! By an hour and a half there is a steady stream of porters, some running down the hill at breakneck speed with towering loads. Another couple walk by and another, but they are stopping to take photos like us and we pass them a little further on. <br />
The trees and plants are wonderful and we pass out of the moorland into the montane forest where the tall trees are draped with bearded lichen. We see the gladioli again as well as the special Kilimanjaro impatiens (impatiens Kilimanjari) the tiny red and yellow flower as well as a lilac version, impatiens pseudoviola. We even spot blue monkeys in the canopy, but only hear the elusive colobus monkeys in the distance. There are lots of ferns under the tall trees, some even resemble tree ferns we have seen in the southern hemisphere, but we didn’t think there were any this far north. There is also a dearth of birds – probably scared away by the dashing porters.<br />
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We are down at the gate by just after nine thirty, so half an hour ahead of Hashim’s estimation. We can sign out immediately and we have to fill in names, age, passport nos, etc. etc. as well as whether we reached Uhuru or stopped at Stella point and what time we got there. Hashim said it was 6am when we got to Uhuru – I hadn’t remembered. The parks official was impressed that we ‘oldies’ had done it – but Hashim said that of the four groups over sixties he had guided up, we were the youngest. (All had made it, too.) Now we had to wait for the van and Honest who would take us to Moivara Lodge. <br />
It isn’t until 11am that we spot the van arriving. Many people getting down way after us are already leaving, but Honest had business to take care of before collecting us. Our porters are not amused as they also wanted to get off home. A small presentation ceremony takes place as Hashim hands us our certificates and Honest drapes us with tinsel garlands! So we pile into the van, make our farewells to our No 1 Kilimanjaro team, and with a full van, driver, Honest, Hashim, Lucas and Joseph, we make our way down through the villages to Moshi, a bustling town at 845m. Honest insists we are to have lunch here, which is not in our plan, but no matter. Lucas and Joseph go off with the driver to take the camping kit back to the store. Honest and Hashim come into the restaurant with us, Alberto’s Bar, which is a night club later in the day! We can order beef burgers and chips and cokes. Honest disappears as soon as he orders – as usual he is continually on the phone and can’t ever finish a sentence before it rings and he has to answer. We eat our meal, chatting with Hashim, who is looking forward to getting home to his wife and baby.<br />
When Honest gets back from wherever, he talks across us to Hashim in Swahili. Then, he tells us that Hashim will come with us to Moivara when the driver gets back from the store. This is what happens, and when we get there we discover that Alan’s sticks have been taken out of the van with the camping gear. Hashim and the driver are very concerned and promise to look into it when they get back. We are all welcomed to the lodge with refreshing fruit juice, and we say goodbye to Hashim who has been a wonderful guide. We wouldn’t have made it without him.<br />
Some of the hotel staff take us to our bungalow in the grounds. They must be used to people arriving in a very dishevelled state, as no-one bats an eyelid at these two dusty, smelly travellers arrive at their lovely lodge! We then set about using a thoughtfully provided brush to get rid of some of the dust from ourselves and equipment. Alan empties a mountain of grit from his trainers – I only have tevas as I have given away my other shoes – indescribably smelly! When the dust is gone, we then head for the shower and it is tempting to spend a long time washing away the dirt and the aches of the previous week. We find clean clothes to wear and bundle up our dirties for the hotel laundry. We stroll across to the main building and take in the lovely veranda where the tables are set for dinner and there is a lounge area. Here we decide to have a cup of tea – but there are no biscuits; and we wait to use their internet. Got to let the world know what we have done. We hear American and Dutch accents going by and it’s lovely to relax in the comfy seats.<br />
Back in the bungalow its time to write up the journal, listen to the birds singing all around us and the cicadas heralding the approaching dusk. Bats are circling round the trees, so we watch them for a while. Dinner is at 19.30.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-14862357437912449592008-10-15T22:00:00.002+01:002014-02-19T20:24:22.001+00:00Day 15“Mama! Bopa!”<br>
It was Manas calling us to get up. Eleven o’clock had come round very quickly, but surprisingly we had slept and now roused ourselves and struggled into our top layers and our boots. Ugali was served in the mess tent along with hot tea; the platys were filled and stowed in our day sacks; then Hashim was waiting with Lucas to take us to the top.<br />
We begin very slowly and can see a couple of sets of lights bobbing someway ahead of us. It is full moonlight, but nevertheless we have our head torches on to light the way as the path is quite rocky. We plod on at Hashim’s steady pace, but it is a steady climb from the outset. Looking back we can see a few tiny lights in the camp below us and further down in the valley, the lights of Moshi twinkle (some 5000m below us!). <br />
Pole pole we go, gradually catching up with the lights ahead as people stop to rest; then we stop to rest and another couple behind catch us up. So it goes on, as we take turns in leapfrogging past. We are soon into the softer scree, which is tiring to climb. This is why we are climbing overnight, as the scree is frozen and not so slippy. For the whole trip, Hashim’s stops have been fairly regular at an hour to an hour and a half, but now I feel as if I need them more frequently; but I must keep going or we will never get there. Everyone is stopping more often as we feel the effects of the thinner air. Sips of water prove how cold it is when we discover there is ice forming in the bottles. Hashim is worried that mine will freeze solid as they have to sit in the outside pockets – the inner bit above the camera compartment is just too small to take a platy. Eventually he puts them in with the emergency stuff he is carrying. The giraffe legs help so much and almost everyone has two, so I am glad we were able to hire one at the gate. Hashim has adjusted them, so they are much longer than their usual height - and more comfortable on the arms. <br />
I have no idea how long we have been walking, but now I look to see if there is a special rock I can walk to before resting. It keeps me going having that to aim for. Then I rest for a little and do it again. It’s very slow, but I take heart in the fact that the people around us are the same folk we were leapfrogging with earlier. Then I have to count a hundred steps to keep going before I rest. This goes on for ages, almost by remote control as I feel very tired, but suddenly Hashim leads me to a rock wall and a rock to sit on and Lucas is leaping about saying something. Alan tells me that we have reached Stella Point (5730m), which is the first part of the summit. Time for more water and a celebratory date. But no time to rest on our laurels as our aim is Uhuru Peak another 165m up. Alan sets off with Lucas, striding ahead and disappearing into mist! We are in clouds, which seems a surprise as it has been clear all the time. We are walking along a wide ridge, it appears, but it is dark and misty and I can’t see what is to either side. What are there are the crater to our right and the glaciers to the left, but even as the sky begins to lighten, the clouds persist, obscuring the view. It takes about an hour to reach our goal. This bit is not so taxing as the climb, I just need to keep Alan in my sights. Then, people are leaping about and shouting and I can see the sign for the peak ahead. Early summiteers are leaving already, having had their photos taken with celebratory cheers and grins. I try my camera, but it announces that I need to change the batteries – it is too cold, poor thing! Alan’s is OK, and someone takes it and we all line up for photos and I notice that Alan’s blue jacket is covered in white – is it frost? Well, no; it is snow! I hadn’t noticed that it was snowing!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We made it with our trusty guides</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr4lm5mZCf4kWapDS90fgfFCg9ru_i2xu1QjeqTypIqycG2arEZSBQYEI17i4G_gxBFPNWlQByuX1defMhYB5eylb1IdvK_2Ypwq8dpWRXK5Rp9GTnnJnoQhd1zYFR2KllfyqHDHKSz0/s1600/Tanzan.-Hols022.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr4lm5mZCf4kWapDS90fgfFCg9ru_i2xu1QjeqTypIqycG2arEZSBQYEI17i4G_gxBFPNWlQByuX1defMhYB5eylb1IdvK_2Ypwq8dpWRXK5Rp9GTnnJnoQhd1zYFR2KllfyqHDHKSz0/s1600/Tanzan.-Hols022.gif" height="320" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was fine, they just decided I needed support!</td></tr>
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Hashim decides its time to go down, quickly. He gives Lucas the emergency bag and takes my rucksack, putting one of my sticks down the side. He takes my arm and we start to retrace our steps, this time at speed, but we do stop to glimpse the glaciers through a break in the cloud. Then we rush on to Stella Point for another quick rest, before plunging over the side of the mountain. We are semi-running down the scree, which is softer in the morning sun. We are out of the cloud and as we rush down, more people are climbing up to make the summit, but most have made Stella Point before the sun has melted the surface. We take a few rests and at one point a kind man offers me some water. We forgot that all the water was now with Alan and Lucas, who were some way behind. <br />
By 8.15am Hashim and I are back at camp. I sit on a rock and Manas brings water and squash. It is great to drink something and it feels wonderful to have achieved what we set out to do, although I don’t really feel that I was aware of it all when we were at the summit! After a quarter of an hour, Alan and Lucas make it back too. We climb into the tent, strip off some of our layers of clothing, then relax, lying flat out on our thermorests with sleeping bags thrown over us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHr8_J0RyNk5DjY844WI-DzGXfYshQyy9Nm10hq1SzJz_ONZ6WuI-90DEek5jHpyfI6wJ3ytfr21NtcMpB8IgN3QY-G4VuYWy7JLaTEtgLIt3RiyDH2f22_HbeDs_Kvxoakz-1dM9XeM/s1600/Tanzan.-Hols038.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdHr8_J0RyNk5DjY844WI-DzGXfYshQyy9Nm10hq1SzJz_ONZ6WuI-90DEek5jHpyfI6wJ3ytfr21NtcMpB8IgN3QY-G4VuYWy7JLaTEtgLIt3RiyDH2f22_HbeDs_Kvxoakz-1dM9XeM/s1600/Tanzan.-Hols038.gif" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wore our jammies as an extra layer!</td></tr>
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At 11am, Manas calls us with some hot water for a wash; and for a late breakfast. I am not feeling great - a sort of sickly headache, but I wash and make myself respectable (with hair sticking up all over the place!) and stagger up to the mess tent. Then I have to dash out again as I feel I am going to be sick. This is not productive as we haven’t eaten since eleven last night, but Manas comes over and assures me that now I will be stronger. He could be right. Alan and I sit in the mess tent and breakfast of potato goulash is served. Luckily there is some toast and tea, which I manage, even though Alan assures me that the goulash is very tasty. I probably need the saltiness, but I decide that rehydration salts will probably be the next best thing and I do feel a lot better after that. Manas thinks we can probably have a couple more hours rest before we have to descend to the last camp, Mweka (3080m).<br />
We are just pouring another mug of tea, and contemplating a slice of pineapple, when Manas rushes back to the mess tent with the news that they are expecting bad weather on the mountain. Consequently, Hashim has decided that we should get down as soon as possible to avoid a cold soaking. We have to pack up immediately and start down; so that is what we do. We are on our way by 12.15pm, not rushing as Alan’s knees won’t take that! We walk down out of the alpine desert with its sparse vegetation into the heath and moorland. Here we see again the tree groundsel and gradually the heathers cloth the hillsides, getting taller and taller as we descend. We also saw the sugarbush protea and kniphofia among the short grasses and Philippia bushes. By 15.30 we have signed in and are at our last camp on Kilimanjaro. We encountered the edge of a rain shower, but the worst of the weather was above us, so a good idea to move when we did. There is a large encampment of Tusker tour tents some 50m away from us. They are having a celebration as the porters etc, are singing and dancing for the tourists, congratulating them on getting to the summit. It all sounds very jolly. There must be 20-30 people in the group – sounds a lot. We manage an early dinner and bed, before we fall asleep on our feet!laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-4893418801284863572008-10-14T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:25:43.558+00:00Day 14<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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At ten to six I needed to go to the loo. Dawn was just breaking and I winkled Alan out of the sleeping bag to come and see. It was beautiful and we watched both peaks turn pink, taking photos, too. Moshi, the town we saw lit up last night is under the cloud, but later we see that it is in the clear and the plains beyond, where they grow sugar cane and maize. After breakfast, Hashim lets us walk along the track at our own pace - there is nowhere else to go. We plod away - Alan leaping on as usual when left to his own devices. It’s up hill all the way, relentless and at 9.30 we have breasted the ridge with Hashim in the lead and Alan tucked in behind again. Now we descend the other side and can see the trail across the plain to a second high ridge. I'm thinking how glad I am that we had the extra day staying at Karanga, as to do Barranco to Barafu and then straight on to the summit that night would be madness for us!<br />
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Gradually we approach the second ridge, which we slowly climb and as we do we see Barafu camp strung out ahead of us, balanced precariously on the ridge. This is about 4500m and so we still have quite an uphill climb to our camp which is about three quarters of the way up. We pass tents of today’s summiteers, some occupied by sleeping bodies, others awaiting occupation. Our team are still putting up the tents as its still only 10.45, so we perch on some convenient rocks supping water and nibbling dried cranberries. Amazingly our friends the alpine chats and the 4 striped mice can be seen scurrying about. Hashim tells us that the camp is actually about 4640m. The wind is incredibly strong and relentless and our frail mess tent threatens to blow away, but it is weighted down with plenty of stones. The central pole rattles against the table and we can only fill the mugs half full or they splash over. It’s like being on a ship in a heavy sea! Any water for the camp has to be brought up from the streams at the bottom of the ridge where we crossed mountain streams of crystal clear water. They go leaping down the path with empty containers and plod back up again with full ones.<br />
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We rest in our tent, preparing the extra layers for tonight’s marathon, and we hear people passing by the tent as they come down the mountain, weary from the effort. 11.45 and Manas calls us to lunch. Its mie in chicken broth and for the first time we can just about finish the pot. It’s cooked just right and very tasty! Manas then chases to our tent to sleep. It is hot and stuffy, but a gale blows outside; we snooze, and comment on feeling a little headachy, paracetamol to the rescue and plenty of tea, of course. Dinner is served around 5.30 and it is stodgy spag again. We have some, but it feels very heavy in our stomachs. The soup was great and so was the fruit, then we return to the tent, put on our layers, apart from the very top and our shoes; and we try to sleep.
laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-14155975137624157462008-10-13T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:26:50.062+00:00Day 13<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a short walk, today, and just as well as we have to climb the Great Barranco Wall. This is a scramble up to 4,200m - tough, steep and in some places on the precipitous edge. Not nice for A who manages those bits very well. We could see some people had already started when we were having breakfast as they were going straight to Barafu, but we have an extra day for acclimatisation at Karanga. They were strung out in zigzag lines up the wall of rock 250m high. We scrambled for an hour, then had a water stop from where we could see a wonderful view of Mt Meru, Tanzania's other mountain - only 4566m. About 1/2hr later we reached the top of the ridge, only to have our photos taken by some guys - was this another ageist thing, that we were somehow different to them? Don't know, but all a bit strange. </div>
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We had water and raisins to keep us going, then Hashim led us over the other side and down. We descended, ascended and descended a long way, then ascended again, quite steeply before finally reaching our camp, Karanga. On the second descent a chap in front of us really twisted his ankle, not too good, but he thought it would be OK as long as he didn't take his boot off. We got to camp at 12.15 and Manas served us tea and little buns. We set up the tent and about an hour later, Manas announced that lunch was ready - amazingly, zucchini soup, chicken and chips and fruit! What a feast. Then the mist rolled in and the wind got up. We spent the afternoon resting and reading, and as evening came on, the mist cleared again. We dined and then retired. There will be little sleep for a couple of days after this.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBR82nrv1mUn0WZEpSPirwXChZDjz7Ls_VCjH0UFBGScln4zi9Uyw9SfoTF4s2ib8p8FDvJScDU_gEa8SKC9EaDxmBXRjTc3sVXKheu9Pw1yFCxuKMkWa5OydgL7PXKd8oVph6dyI13E/s1600/IMG_7651.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigBR82nrv1mUn0WZEpSPirwXChZDjz7Ls_VCjH0UFBGScln4zi9Uyw9SfoTF4s2ib8p8FDvJScDU_gEa8SKC9EaDxmBXRjTc3sVXKheu9Pw1yFCxuKMkWa5OydgL7PXKd8oVph6dyI13E/s1600/IMG_7651.gif" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The usual condiments</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is quite a mess</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqM9XKq40RIPlmTWz6gC_8rob7Og4YJQd3-T3PExaYfeFxgPbCR5xt-Fy0907dl8epyeidTurbwtvXYzz7CHtITDQhB1AZwxMd6X09VVHdxYeMelmPbp-QrWWc5uWZQt9R6anpxBxhMME/s1600/IMG_7653.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqM9XKq40RIPlmTWz6gC_8rob7Og4YJQd3-T3PExaYfeFxgPbCR5xt-Fy0907dl8epyeidTurbwtvXYzz7CHtITDQhB1AZwxMd6X09VVHdxYeMelmPbp-QrWWc5uWZQt9R6anpxBxhMME/s1600/IMG_7653.gif" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the state of the mess tent</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping the tent down with stones</td></tr>
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is a long slog. Breakfast is at 7.30, and we are soon on our way for the
third day of our climb.<br />
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Hashim's pace is excellent, but we still find it a tough climb. Our first water stop is after1 1/2hrs. Here a couple of American women pass us, remarking that we must have been up early. Not knowing quite what to make of this, I replied that indeed we had got up before we went to bed - all a bit Monty Pythonish! Then on we go through short arboreal erica and helycrisum.<br />
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2hrs later we reach a junction - up over the pass, or, as the porters do, straight to Barranco. The whole point is to get a bit of height acclimatisation, so we choose the Lava Tower route. Unlucky for us, the mist is down and we only see the towers as an ethereal shadow, when we finally reach the top of the pass (4750m).<br />
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We join another couple sitting on some rocks and the husband remarks that it’s like a summer’s day on the top of Snowdon! There are lots of cute robin like birds around us, which Hashim informs us are alpine chats. They are very tame, but are not begging for food, just friendly. The landscape has really changed as we enter the alpine region, a sort of prehistoric landscape with the giant groundsel plants dotting the hillside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-nqkmA_rbSev_fEfQiMeI2adGVi1J1J_Tl9unpyvi-38oatZ81NxVx0DjKQNpPRI9V6E5y8aX1LRIEKVdMqe_VEQ6k5Nw1jTVYXNqcFaoV1Rt6BhKy_92hrqexmBCtyd650WaL_ooJg/s1600/IMG_7641a.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-nqkmA_rbSev_fEfQiMeI2adGVi1J1J_Tl9unpyvi-38oatZ81NxVx0DjKQNpPRI9V6E5y8aX1LRIEKVdMqe_VEQ6k5Nw1jTVYXNqcFaoV1Rt6BhKy_92hrqexmBCtyd650WaL_ooJg/s1600/IMG_7641a.gif" height="320" width="320" /></a>It starts to rain and then hails, as we climb down the other side of the pass and walk into Barranco camp at 14.10 (3950m). Unfortunately a puddle forms under our tent and starts to seep through the ground sheet. The lads dig out a trench to drain the water away and we position the thermorests at an angle to avoid the wet patch. The mess tent is completely porous and we sit in a spray of water to have tea and popcorn etc! Not very satisfactory. I try keeping the bowl of sugar dry by putting the tin of coffee on top of it, but each time we go back to the tent, Manas comes in and rearranges it all. I fear it will turn to liquid! We rest after the effort of climbing up to the Tower, then Manas calls us for dinner,which tonight is rice and sauce after a delicious pumpkin soup. The avocado dessert is still going strong, so we decided to eat it with main course. We retire early, then need to go to the loo about10pm. Climbing out of the tent, I see it is a beautiful night with a crispness and clarity to be seen. The view of the mountain in the moonlight is stunning and we both stand for a while admiring it.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-54557318598409894942008-10-11T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:30:49.072+00:00Day 11Our walk today is up to 3845m.
We were up at 6.30 after a really cosy night. We needed to be packed ready for breakfast at 7.30, so got the beds cleared into the bags by the time Manas appeared at the tent flap with bowls of hot water for washing. Breakfast is ugali, the local maize porridge, which is pretty good with some brown sugar to jazz it up. Then we were offered omelette and sausage and a load of toast and jam/honey. I declined the sausage, but the omelette on a slice of toast was very tasty. More tea, too. A bag of lunch was given to both and we stowed them in our rucksacks, before setting off at 8. Today Hashim is being the pace setter. We are going 'pole pole' (ie. very slowly), and it is much better than our start, yesterday. Alan follows me, following Hashim. We stop for water after about 3/4 hr, but continue on as before, passing from forest into heathland. Such a change as we walk through 6m high erica arboria with helychrysums growing in large colourful clumps underneath and the occasional splash of colour from red wild gladioli. At 11.15 we stop for lunch. I'm not greatly taken with the chicken, and Alan finds his is not cooked properly. So its just the cheese and tomato butties and a hard boiled egg. Half-time oranges are tasty, too, as is the mango juice and a little bun. As we sit there, the white necked crows advance on us and we rattle a stick at them to make them retreat. There are also very cute 4 striped mice, that dash at breakneck speed between the bushes. We are climbing all the time to cross the ridge. Slog slowly onwards and upwards; we stopped to rescue a beautiful chameleon from the middle of the path, there are plenty of heavy boots on the way that could squash him. As I pick him up gently, he curls his little tail around my little finger and hangs on with his tiny claws spiking my other fingers. I set him down at the edge of the path where he will be safer. Then we spot a lammergeyer. Not a common bird, but known in these parts. Really a classy vulture, it soars like an eagle above us. We also saw the giant lobelia in flower with sunbirds not far away; and what may have been the popcorn cassias. Amazingly we are at Shira camp by 13.10, tired, but not as exhausted as day 1. The same drill as yesterday - set up the tent, a bite of lunch, a relaxing afternoon, before an earlyish dinner of soup, soggy spag bol all of which would have fed a family of eight! This camp has a special doorless latrine. Actually, it has a door, but it has completely come away from the rest of the wooden box around the hole in the ground. I take my hat to indicate the loo is occupied, then sidle in the space where the door is propped up against the front! Hmm! Whatever next? We retire quite early as tomorrow we walk up passed the Lava Tower which is at 4600m approx.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/MwCObpv806M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-88393145324712857432008-10-10T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:33:14.247+00:00Day 10Today we began with breakfast, along with a spoonbill that hopped up and down the garden hedge! This was after we had encountered the incredible yellow slug in the shower - ugh.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our goal high in the sky</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount Kilimanjaro above the plains</td></tr>
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Radjar was waiting for us as we walked back to the cabin/ rondavel and collected the bags and us and off we drove to the Machame Gate. On the way we were very lucky with some wonderful views if the mountain in the early morning sun. A crested eagle was seen sitting on a tree quite near the road.<br />
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On arrival we met Honest again - always on his mobile, but he introduced us to Hashim who will be our guide up the mountain. I am glad to see he isn't a hugely tall man, so I will be able to keep up with him. Lots of paperwork and we have to sign in with passport nos. etc. Hashim has our permits and we meet, briefly, his assistant Lucas; the cook, Joseph; our waiter, Manas; and the six porters who will carry the big bags. Their limit is 20Kg which is controlled before they are allowed through the gate. Honest helps us hire a second giraffe leg for me - I only brought one with me. </div>
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Then at last we were off. Hashim told us to go slowly at our own pace. Alan shot off ahead and was always a couple of hundred yards in front. I found it tough going, even at what I thought was a slow pace. There are some wonderful flowers to see as we pass through the mountaigne forest. We even spotted a turaco flying over - black with spectacular red on it. We stopped for lunch, which we had been given in a small cardboard box - an eggburger - cold, of course!<br />
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Then Hashim told me to follow him and he set a really slow pace with which I was much more comfortable. We reached our campsite in 5 hrs, which Hashim was quite pleased about. We set about getting up the thermorests and sleeping bags, then washed in warm water and were served tea, biscuits, popcorn and salted peanuts as a snack to keep us going to dinner time. We also visited the latrine, which is entertaining as the door doesn't fit the door frame properly, but at least anyone approaching can see a bit of leg and knows it is occupied! For dinner Joseph rustle up some excellent soup, fish with mixed veg and potatoes and even a dessert - what a surprise, a few slices of fresh avocado. Plenty of hot tea helped it all down.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dining and sleeping quarters</td></tr>
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<br />laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-48480845281120974622008-10-09T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:33:34.314+00:00Day 9Breakfast was at 8, but as I woke early, I dressed and sat on the veranda reading for a while. We had fruit and toast in the lovely dining room again. Apparently, the bar we were in last night has only been open for 3 days. It’s a great addition to the buildings with its wine cellar underneath. We weren't meeting Kim until 10, so we walked through the gardens again, trying to identify various sunbirds and others - maybe a robin chat, as well as mountain wagtails. On our way round we found a tiny shop and bought a mahogany bowl inset with bone and a matching spoon for Jane & Matt and a small bone salt spoon for ourselves. We said goodbye to Plantation Lodge, leaving some favourable comments in the visitor book, and met Kim by the car. Alan and Kim spread the map of Serengeti Park over a bench and Kim showed us where he had taken us. It’s quite an area but only a small part of the whole park. At least we have an idea of where we saw everything. Then we set off for Arusha - no animal spotting, so the roof was closed. We came down the steep slope towards Lake Manyara Park, with wonderful views of the lake as we descended. We stopped in Karatu town to buy PCs and stamps at the PO. They only accept T shillings, so Alan and Kim went off to the bank to exchange some dollars. I sat in the PO and a young lad tried to sell me some trinkets. Kim had warned us not to buy from these lads as they should be in school and it would only encourage others to leave school early if they saw a living could be made easily! Once we paid for the PCs we set off again, soon entering the Maasai Steppe stretching away to our right. Kim planned that we should stop at an Arts and Crafts place to have lunch. Apparently the tour people all stop here as there are tables and chairs under baristi umbrellas for us to use. A vast warehouse holds masses of Africana as well as gemstones and jewellery. After we had delved into the boxes of lunch, we wandered around the place, but there was precious little to buy - sad that none of the really classy stuff finds its way into these tourist traps.<br />
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Next stop was Arusha and L'Oasis. Here we have said our farewells to Kim and thanked him a lot for being a marvellous guide over the last nine days. He told us that he now has a few days rest and is having the christening of his daughter, Faith, on Sunday. Surprisingly tucked in behind some local housing up an unpromising side street, L'Oasis seems a pleasant place to stay with individual round cabins with pointed baristi roofs. Tranquil gardens are there to sit in and a resident crowned crane has entertained us with the odd honking and walking up and down stairs opposite our cabin door. We have sorted the bags and Honest from Mt Kili Safari Club visited us with weasely words about our trek up the mountain. He was a bit sceptical about our clothing, and advised us to wear both pairs of trousers as well as thermals, and waterproofs on summit day. We can leave stuff in his office that we won’t need up the mountain. We have ordered our dinner, which we can have at 7pm. An early night as the driver will meet us at 8 am to take us to the start of our awfully big adventure. We have a map of the mountain, and we have been studying the contour lines. It doesn't seem overly steep until the summit day, so we will see how we go. Pole pole as they say here - take it slow, and that's what we must do.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-81121123593155201972008-10-08T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:35:59.463+00:00Day 8<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/S58AxUN7DYk?list=UUYLE6b5ZPN1G81qx6s9erqQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
We discovered that the president of Madagascar is staying in the Sopa Lodge. There was quite a fuss last night, and this morning when we met Kim at 7am, there were several official white vans as well as police. We threaded our way through them all and were allowed out through the gate. Soon we were descending into the crater. An ostrich was fanning her wings, but not at us, at a male some way off. We don't think he saw her! Then just beside her a hyena trotted by, so close to the road. A long line of buffalo were walking along the river including some very little ones. We hoped the hyena wouldn't be tempted, but Kim said that buffalo were just too much for hyena. Further on there were some gnu and then we saw a side striped jackal - a furrier version of the one we had seen in the Serengeti. Again just beside the road we saw black winged plovers, another new bird for the list, which stands at least 75! Driving and looking we saw the usual herds, the Kim pointed out a pair of mating ostrich. Much flapping and dipping of necks went on, until the male got up and went off one way, the female the other way! <br />
We now drove into an area where there were loads of crowned cranes. Looking beautiful in the sun, some were just arriving and greeted their friends with a flapping up and down dance. On the other side of the road were two pretty bat-eared foxes.<br />
Kim now drove down to the hippo pool, but just before we got there we saw three lions lounging by the river. At the hippo pool there were a few sleepy hippos, but loads of interesting birds. First there were white egrets in the reeds, then we saw the pelicans, heron, sacred ibis, night heron, black crake, moorhen, Egyptian geese - so much going on there. Then there was a tiny malachite kingfisher in front of us - sparkling in the sun.<br />
Other vans were arriving and leaving all the time, they looked at the pond, but were more interested in the lions by the river. Suddenly someone shouted and we all looked up to see a lion on the back of a zebra. She brought it down and made the kill behind a large rock. The other zebra were shocked and stood staring at her and their 'friend'. We were also taken aback for that to happen right in front of us and so fast. We expected to see the lion reappear with a bloody face, but, no, she came up on to the rock and lay there. Kim tells us that after the kill, the lion will rest, not calling the others until she has fed - the others would take too much while she was still exhausted from the chase. The three by the river just played about; then suddenly we saw three more lionesses appear from nowhere. They came across to the ones by the river and two jackals came up from the side, too. Then a young male started to approach the group, very slowly. We learned that this was a young male who now gets chased away as its time for him to hunt for himself. Then two of the lionesses chased him off. Still the one making the kill was resting, the zebra gradually moved away, and so did we, leaving a chaos of vans manoeuvring behind us.<br />
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Kim had heard that there was a rhino way over the other side of the crater, but wanted to check out a group of vans not far away. This proved to be a reclining black rhino - with just the odd flicker of an ear to show where he was. We waited and did get a glimpse of his horn, but he seemed to be there for the duration, so we eventually moved off to drive down to the soda lake. On the way we saw two sleeping warthogs side by side, then we were looking at flamingos, sifting the water. Just on the shore we saw three hyena, then two more, then counted up to 22 with what could be more further off! Back to the birds - we think there was avocet along the shore in front of the flamingos as well as some other small waders too far away to see. Lunch was beginning to call, so we moved off, crossing a small stream where there was a pair of red-billed ducks - very pretty. Just further along the road there was an augur buzzard sitting on the ground. Up ahead we saw some vans racing along and Kim spotted our rhino had got up and was on the move. We got down the road and he had walked quite quickly away from his sleeping spot, but we could still see him clearly - not just a dot on the horizon. Now it really was time for lunch, so Kim drove quickly down towards the big hippo pool. On the way we passed the swamp, where there were four elephant almost covered in foliage up to there tummies.<br />
At the pool, Kim warned us that the black kites would steal our food, so it was better to eat inside the van. We walked over to the loos, watching many black kites swooping and diving over the picnic area - getting very close to some of the visitors. There were several hippos in the pool, just surfacing now and again, not wallowing like others we've seen. Back at the van we opened our posh box from Sopa. Samosas, sarnies, apple, bananas, cheese and biccies (where was the ubiquitous boiled egg?). I dropped some crumbs and the starlings and weavers soon appeared to gobble it up. A bigger bit of bread was swooped on by a black kite - one pass and it was gone! Great entertainment! But we had to press on to leave the park at the correct time. We drove past the elephant that had come out of the swamp, because some lion had gone into the drain under the road. This created a huge traffic jam of vans leaving lunch and those arriving. But everyone wanted to see the lion if they popped out. We managed to see them, then moved out of the chaos, again! Now we were seeing the animals for the last time as we headed towards the ascending track. We came past another lake where there were pelicans, yellow-billed stork and ibis; then there was a stand of yellow barked acacia with zebra in front of them; then there was Lorai picnic area where the black faced vervets were, who steal stuff from cars left open! So we came out of the crater, signed out of Ngorongoro Park and drove down to Plantation Lodge, which is delightful. Set in beautiful gardens we have a semi detached bungalow with a veranda where I am writing this. We have walked around the garden spotting some lovely birds - a light chanting goshawk, sunbirds, lovebirds and now after our showers, the light is fading and the cicadas have begun their nightly chirruping. Soon it will be time for dinner.
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Before dinner we visited the bar , which has a wide veranda overlooking a grassy area with barbecue pit and seating areas. It is a lovely evening and the beer goes down very well under the stars. Dinner was in the lovely understated dining room – plain wood tables and settings around mats. On the way in, we spotted that the inside part of the bar had a huge circle of glass set into the floor, showing off the wine cellar. Amazing!<br />
Now its time for bed, under our mosquito nets!laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-7121995989788273772008-10-07T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T20:38:42.318+00:00Day 7<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bnPPCfc9iD0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Today the alarm went at six, just as the hot water arrived. We had heard the wildebeest and the hyena in the night, but apparently there was no kill near the camp. We walked down to meet Kim at 6.30 and took off for a couple of hours drive before breakfast. There was a huge number of wildebeest near the camp, crossing our road. We turned onto the main road and there were three hyena lying in some longish grass at the side of the road, looking quite peaceful, when another van drove up with some noisy people. They were too much for the hyena, which got up and trotted away. One of them only had three legs - wonder how that happened. We took a small turning round to the right. This was quite a bushy area with lots of birds, most of which we had seen on previous drives. There were giraffe and gazelle about and a grey heron standing in the road. Once again we saw dikdik - one in the sun and a bit further on a pair. All the time we could see wildebeest through the trees and in the distance. We eventually got to the hippo pool, and as we were about to go down to the hippos I spotted a fish eagle coming to land in a tree. We went across to get a better view and he was magnificent. All too soon he took off again, up the river. As we turned, a Bateleur eagle was flying overhead and we tried to take pics of him too. The Hippo pool was a bit quieter than the evening viewing, and we also saw a couple of crocks on the rocks and in the water. Not huge but big enough. Then we drove back to the lodge, stopping to watch a silvery snake on the way. This was featureless rather like a metal slow worm. It has no fangs and is not dangerous to us, apparently.<br />
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We had breakfast and checked out bidding farewell to all at Ronjo, and at 10 we were off again. Other drivers reported seeing some cheetah, so we were going off in the hope of seeing them. We drove up near the hills and we saw some vultures away in the distance pecking over a kill, and a couple of hyena. With the vultures were two tawny eagles and something brownish. This turned out to be an immature Bateleur eagle when it flew up to join another in a tree nearby. They then took off and circled over us.<br />Just a little way ahead there were a few vans parked. As we joined them, we saw that it wasn't cheetah, but loins that had caught their attention. It turned out there were four females lounging about in the grass. We drove on a short way and found the vans parked near the five cheetah - a mother and four large cubs. They were flat out in the grass, but kept lifting their heads up, then flopping down again. It got very interesting as a group of zebra approached from left and up wind, not knowing the cheetah were there. A very young one was leaping about with its mother near the front of the group, and the cheetahs were carefully watching. All of a sudden the zebra stopped and milled about before deciding to retreat in a hurry. Cheetahs flopped down again. Then a large group of zebra crossed the road behind us away from the cheetah and to the right this time. We had seen them earlier as they had a lone wildebeest with them, as well as some young. As we watched, the larger group crossed, but about half a dozen, including two young ones, one only days old, kept coming towards the cheetah who were very alert. The zebra stopped and the young one sat down as its mother lay down and rolled on its back not 50m from the cheetah. But nothing happened and the zebra just stopped and seemed very relaxed. So we left to try and find some elephant. Just over the hill we could see a plain filled with all the migratory animals as well as giraffe, and in the distance some elephant. We headed off in that direction.<br />Driving along we watched all the animals, then it became a bit quieter. There was a kopje and Kim was busy on the radio, but we spotted something long and yellow. Sure it was a lion we asked Kim to stop. He got off the radio and we showed him. There way down the hill near the kopje was a lioness with her kill - face covered in blood. After a while a second one came across but didn't go very close and we saw a third one coming in from the left. This one sat on top of some rocks, and the second one disappeared in the grass. The first one dragged the kill across to the rocks and leapt up to join the other one. It was fascinating to watch, albeit at quite a distance. Thank goodness for good binos. <br />Now we headed to a picnic area for lunch and on the way Kim showed us an old male lion hidden in the middle of four trees. The picnic area was a bit of a drive, but it had a great view of the plain and we could see loads of gazelle . They are making for the short grass plains, which are much safer for the shorter animals as the predators can't hide so well there. It was very windy and we had to hang onto Kim’s tablecloth as well as our boxes.
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When we had done, Kim took us off to a brackish lake where we could see stilts, little ring plovers, blacksmith plovers, Kittlitz's plover and a large skull from a late hippo. We saw an old hammerkop nest on the way.<br />Now we had to leave a make for the exit gate by 4pm. With some deft driving, Kim made it with time to spare and we left the Serengeti, after a memorable visit. Now began our version of the East Africa Safari Rally as we charged through the Ngorongoro area passed Mt Makarot, Olbalbal Depression, and up on to the crater rim. I spotted a Lanner Falcon, and we saw an Auger Buzzard in a tree, then as we were almost at the Lodge, a long crested eagle flew in front of the car much to everyone’s surprise. We are now at Sopa Lodge, which has views down in to the crater, only not our room, but it was soon dark after we arrived. We were so dusty after the journey we had showers and made ourselves presentable for dinner in a posh dining room. It is like an enormous roundavel with a cone shaped ceiling lined with banana leaves. We started with lovely shrimps with garlic mayo, then chicken and mash for A and veggie noodles for me. A jolly woman called Sarah served us. Then it was time to write the journal and go to bed as we meet Kim at 7am to start again! We are at 2,375m up here, and we take it slowly walking up from the room to the main building!(More than twice as high as Snowdon (1085m).)laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-13636275331260654512008-10-06T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-19T11:09:44.450+00:00Day 6<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/z9XX_AmSisE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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This morning we were up at 6.30 with the hot water, but still no water in the loo. Breakfast with a reticent Becky who had special local porridge and maize pancakes. We wished her a good flight to see the chimpanzees at Gombi, as we took off with Kim at 7.30 with picnic boxes. He has spoken to the Ronjo camp people about the loo. There was obviously a total misunderstanding. On the road out of the camp we saw a little turtle crossing the road.<br />
There had been a kill in the night. Although we only heard gnu grunting, Kim had heard the hyena. We saw eight or so hyena in the distance as we left camp - probably over where they had made their kill. The wildebeest had moved on and more herds would follow. On the other side of the road we saw two jackals and a vulture. Maybe they had been at the kill. We turned out onto the road seeing our usual gazelle, zebra, and impala. We made for a pool where we saw some vervet monkeys playing in the trees, and down on the bank was a small croc. A huge 'Explore' bus came up behind us - the first big vehicle we have seen. Off we set and stopped to watch a pair of brown parrots in a dead tree. These are anything but brown, being dusky headed with yellow highlights and a green body! On again to see a pair of dikdik hiding in a bush. They are so small and mate for life, living in a 10msq territory. A couple of vans passed us, so we followed and came up to where there were some parked cars ahead of us and as we approached we could see a pair of lions just at the side of the road. Kim suggested that this was a mating pair - the female from the area we were in as she was totally unconcerned even though the vans were close to them. The male was completely opposite, showing that he came from the interior of the park where there are no vans. When one moved he was very upset growling and threatening it. He tried to settle down again, but wasn't happy. As we left, it was all too much and he persuaded the female that it was time to move a little further away. This female is quite a character and is not above using parked vans as cover when hunting. Kim had a little film of her behaviour on his mobile phone!<br />
Now we drove along a road by some marshy land. Just before we turned in, we spotted a small furry creature, which turned out to be a dwarf mongoose. It’s very small compared with the other mongoose we have seen. This new road was good for birds and we saw a pair of Verreaux's Eagle Owl in a tree. They have amazing pink eyelids and are very large indeed. Moving on, something was in the grass and we thought it was a serval, but Kim said it was a wild cat - much smaller. Our next spot was a Bateleur Eagle circling overhead and further on an African Marsh Harrier had us baffled for a while, perched in the shade of a tree, looking a bit like a black kite. It seemed to have the wrong coloured legs, but it was in the shade. On the other side there was a Nubian or Lappet -faced vulture, another very big bird. An African Hoopoe flitted about in the shorter grass for a while. Moving on into some longer grass, we spotted a serval, again hunting rodents. It moved parallel to the van and then crossed the road in front of us. We had a very clear view. We drove around the top of the marsh and then followed a road that took us around several kopjes, looking for a leopard with a cub, but apart from the hyrax and the outline of some lizards, we saw nothing. There were a few gazelle about, but it was very quiet.<br />
Kim heard on his radio there was a leopard in a tree, so we set off to find it. No problem as plenty of vans had turned up. The leopard was hanging out over a branch, and we got a pretty good view, although it wasn't that close. Suddenly it decided to move up higher, and that was that. It was almost invisible. We drove away and soon came to a river. On the opposite bank was a pair of sacred ibis with a heron, then a third ibis walked along fishing in the water. It was a very peaceful scene. We were now on our way to picnic lunch at park headquarters, so driving with some purpose, when Kim stopped. He had spotted a lioness way over by some trees. With difficulty we also found her as well as another tail wafting in some long grass. She got up and wandered over to where we had seen the tail and disappeared into the grass. The other van that stopped by us had moved on then stopped again, so we drove across to it and there was another lioness lying flat out under a tree, nearly hidden in grass. She was so at ease that she was rolling on to her back, paws in the air. Another van had spotted a third/fourth lioness in a thicket on the other side of the road. They were positioned ready for an ambush when the next wave of migrating animals came through. So we have seen six lions, altogether. Now straight to park headquarters where we were to have our picnic. There is a garden with concrete tables and benches under baristi roofs. It is also frequented by hyrax, dwarf mongoose, mice and many, many birds! We walked over to where Kim had set out the picnic, but were distracted by a dwarf mongoose running down the road beside the area. He was obviously the vanguard who told the others that the food had arrived, as quickly there were many little mongooses running around with the hyrax. The mice kept to the hedge, but the barbets, grey headed social weavers, etc. were very cheeky, even landing on tables to pinch food. I dropped my mince sandwich filling bit by bit and the little mongooses scrabbled about in the gravel floor to eat it all up. One mongoose got a terrible shock as a French woman smoking a cigarette held it down and away from the table. The mongoose thought it was being fed, and both she and it got such a shock as it jumped up to grab the ciggie.<br />
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We finished lunch, then walked around the little interpretation trail with its lovely painted illustrations and lots of information. African art metal sculptures of various animals were strategically placed, and part of the way we were accompanied by hyrax. And so we came back to the van at about 3pm. As we left the area we stopped to take a picture of the red lilyball flowers as there were so many of them together. Then we started to make our way back to Ronjo. Our first spot were some topi at the side of the road with a really young one. Then a bit further on Kim pointed out two yellow blobs out on the plain. He stopped the van and we go the binos out on to the pair of lions we had seen this morning. They were both flat out in the middle of a grassy area. Obviously the male was a lot happier there away from the smelly, annoying vans. There were plenty of birds flying around them, but no mammals! Time to move on and we were all looking out for animals, when another serval appeared quite nearby in the grass. We watched it prowling along until it disappeared in the longer, thicker undergrowth. A couple in another van were quite excited, calling it a baby cheetah despite their guide informing them what it was! The husband was taking a video of it, giving a running commentary about the baby cheetah!<br />
So we turned for home and the sun was still shining. No rain tonight by all accounts. Kim will meet us early tomorrow for a pre-breakfast drive. There is almost a full house tonight with 20 people staying. The fire is lit and some of the deckchairs are in use. We have some sociable people to share dinner with, which is great. Heather and Frank, Americans, have just climbed Kili. Although they took a different route, we have been chatting about how it was for them. It is apparently pretty tough on the last day to the summit; but we expected that.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-15959937411777763282008-10-05T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-18T19:12:06.743+00:00Day 5<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-KRhY1-OmuI" width="420"></iframe>
We got up at 7 after the hot water arrived. Breakfast was at 7.30 and we were due to leave at 8.30. We had heard lots of grunting during the night, probably from the wildebeest. During breakfast we saw plenty of Zebra, gazelle, wildebeest streaming across the plain some distance from the camp. Some Thomson gazelle were closer by and started running, then we spotted a hyena running across the path no more than 50m away. The camp is a haven for birds - even some nesting in the tree outside our tent. We saw among others, rufous sparrows, mosque swallows, red eared cordon bleu, white headed buffalo weaver. Kim arrived and we climbed in to start our trek to find the migratory herds. Almost at once we stopped to see a dead juvenile giraffe. The drivers thought maybe a leopard had killed it and then left. Soon the hyena and the vultures would find it. Driving along muddy roads we could see plenty of gazelle, zebra, giraffe; but Kim wanted to find bigger herds as the rain should have brought them in. Still we kept seeing plenty of birds - hornbill, roller, woodpecker, barbet. We noticed the Cheetah project van parked in the bundu and some safari vans on the road near it, so drove over and we saw three cheetah in the long grass. There was a big herd of Burchall’s zebra away to the right and then along the road we found a big group of wildebeest. Also we spotted half a dozen elephants under a spreading acacia tree on the plain, in the distance. Gradually making our way back, we saw a pair of Ostrich - the male chasing the female, but he gave up when he saw us! By the first hippo pool we had seen two small crocs lying on rocks, now we approached the second of the day and the hippos were lying like rocks in the water with a black crake pottering about on their backs.<br />
Ahead were more parked cars and Kim noticed a tail hanging down from the tree. Here was a lioness hiding in the foliage. We could see the colour of her fur in amongst the leaves, but no clear view of her head. On again and there was a great collection of vultures and marabou storks wandering about. Then under a tree we could see a cheetah. Apparently there had been a kill and soon the vultures had come and chased off the cheetah that then retreated under the tree. Now the vultures had almost finished, leaving the jackals to try and grab a bite as the marabou moved in to scavenge on the bits. They don't have the right beaks to tear the flesh themselves, so they wait to pick up bits left behind. We moved on and stopped to watch a serval cat pouncing on little rodents, but not catching anything<br />
On the way back, we saw the smaller bustard, hammerkop, Kori bustard , coucal and just before we turned in to our road we came across the giraffe kill from earlier. Predictably there were lots of vultures around it and Kim reckoned that the hyena had been and gone. Then we drove up to the camp for mince and chips for lunch and some people have had a siesta! Before he dropped off Alan counted up that we had seen 34 birds, that we could identify plus all the ones we couldn't. Thunder is rattling around again and it will rain. We are due out again at 4pm.<br />
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It was raining when we set off, but Kim was hopeful of us seeing lots of interesting stuff. We were going to drive across to the hippo pool, with plenty to spot on the way there, hopefully. Indeed we hadn’t gone too far before Kim started peering into the rain. He thought it was a buffalo in the beginning, but gradually we saw that there was a hippo strolling along in the bush. It looked like a large, glistening black rock, slowly advancing towards the road. We watched with bated breath, but eventually it turned back into the trees and was lost to view. Kim thought it was probably hungry and had ventured out of the water before nightfall in search of pasture. It was certainly not going to dry out in the persistent rain. After it had gone, we did see some buffalo and antelope and gazelle in the rain. Then we arrived at the hippo pool – and the rain held off for a while.<br />
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This is an unbelievable sight – the hippo wallowing in their own shit, which they spray out and waft about with their tails. It’s a bit ‘high’, especially as some of them roll over and over in the water disturbing all the stuff from the bottom of the pool. There were over a hundred of them, all slipping and sliding across and yawning at each other. Some were even mating in the water, the males almost drowning the females in the process. The young hippos trying to stay by their mothers as everyone moved around.<br />
Meanwhile, unbeknown to us, there had been a huge storm at Ronjo camp. When we returned, they told us that it had rained ice – a hailstorm! We borrowed brolleys and walked to the tent only to discover that it had somehow rained in and there was a pool of water at the front. I went back to the mess tent and asked for some help and one of the men followed me back with a hand towel. This was a little less than he needed as investigating further we found that about a third of the tent had a couple of inches of water lying. Luckily everything was either on the bed or on the other side of the tent, so no problem there; but clearly we couldn’t stay there tonight. A new tent would be made ready for us, but the hot water had already been delivered, so would we mind showering in no 2 tent before moving? This was a fine solution, and after warm, quick showers we moved out to no 5 tent. When we passed to go to dinner, the beds were stripped and stacked and the mats were removed and the water was being mopped up. They thought that a lake had formed under the tent as so much had fallen, and it had seeped up through the floor. We just have one problem in that there isn’t any water coming into the flush loo at tent no 5, and we don’t think they quite understand that it needs to be turned on.<br />
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laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-79846962570381960812008-10-04T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-18T19:02:21.421+00:00Day 4<span id="goog_50035960"></span><span id="goog_50035961"></span><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/nwLfv0stF6w" width="420"></iframe>
At 7 am a shout of 'Good Morning' aroused us as the hot water arrived. We washed etc and made breakfast by half past. Alex and Christiana were there and were disappointed to have missed the sunrise. After they finished we wished them good luck as they were leaving for the island and the diving part of their holiday. We met up with Kitembi for our walk and we set off across the grassland – just the three of us, chatting with him about Maasai traditions. We first saw some baboon moving along a line of wild sisal. Oldupai is the local name for the sisal and they say the first German settler mistook this and called the area Olduvai supposedly after the sisal. Kitembi picked something off the ground and asked if we knew what it was. We thought probably a seed of some sort. No, it was the remains of a dropping that a dung beetle had buried with its eggs inside. Apparently, the jackals dig them up and break them open to eat the eggs from inside! We made our way down off the little plateau and along to the small gorge, where there was water for the first time in months after the rain of last night. We followed the stream around and came across two Maasai women with their donkeys collecting water for the village back on the plateau. Kitembi showed us that the people had dug wells to collect the water, so they can fill troughs built into the banks to water their cattle. They always leave some water in there for the wild animals. Now we walked out of the gorge on to the plain and saw lots of tracks, including very large ones from giraffe. He told us that the leopards can kill a giraffe single handed. A Leopard will lie out in the trees and when a giraffe comes along, he drops onto it, sinking its teeth in. The leopard drinks the blood, but doesn't eat much meat, that often gets left for the vultures and other opportunist carrion feeders. As we walked along a flock of little birds flew up and amongst them were several pairs of lovebirds - very colourful. Other birds we saw were grey woodpeckers that have calls very similar to our green ones. Now ahead of us was a herd of about twenty Grants gazelle. They noticed we were there, but as we walked slowly by, they just moved slightly to one side and we strolled by them. We were now making our way back up to the plateau and Olduvai Lodge. The animals come to here to eat the oldupai (sisal plants) in the dry season as the spiky leaves contain water.<br />
When we got back, Kim was looking out for us from the top veranda where people go to watch the sunrise. He waved, then came down to meet us, loaded up the van and we left. Our destination was the Olduvai Museum. Before we got there we spotted a small group of giraffe with some young. Kim drove across to them and we took photos. Then we went to the museum, which tells the story of the discovery of the earliest human skulls by the Leakeys - Zinjanthropus and later, Homo Habilis; and all the research they did about the tools etc. There is a replica of a series of footprints as well as a great selection of fossilised skulls. The footprints were formed by a fortunate combination of events. The ground in the area where the footprints were found was occasionally covered with ash from nearby volcanoes, much like how ground is covered with snow during a snowfall. On the day the three beings took their stroll, rain had turned the fallen ash into a fine mud that captured the footprints like a plaster casting. Before the prints were lost, they were buried beneath another heavy fall of ash. The layers of ash hardened, preserving the footprints.<br />
Outside, again, we sat under a straw roof and had a talk from one of the guides. When this was over Kim took us down into the gorge in the van. He drove us to the place where the Zinjanthropus skull was found and we saw the memorial. Time to drive out of the gorge and after more, rough road we found a shady tree and had lunch. Everywhere was very quiet, we thought nothing was around in the heat of the day, but then spotted a dark chanting goshawk in a nearby tree. He just sat there ignoring us. When we began again we were on our way to the shifting sand. Storm clouds had gathered over the mountains and it looked as if they were getting quite a lot of rain over there.<br />
The Shifting Sand is a unique crescent shaped dune made from carborundum, ejected during an eruption of Ol Doinyo Lengai some million and a half years ago. Enough magnetic material landed in one area to form the dune, which has been travelling across the plain ever since, under the influence of the prevailing wind. We walked up on to it and could see its self correcting qualities as our disturbance was already being eradicated as we stood there. Soon after we left the dune, we found a very young Maasai goat herder who was pleased to take our leftovers from lunch.<br />
And now we had to drive out of Ngorongoro into the Serengeti.
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At the gate there was a big queue, so Kim suggested that we stroll up to view point. Near the summit we found a fabulous purple/blue lizard and some buffalo weaver birds. We could see and hear a storm coming – thunder and lightning; but no rain until w got into the Serengeti high grass. On our way to our camp we saw lots of gazelle, then 2 cheetah on mound; ostrich herd, topi, wildebeest, zebra, secretary birds and vulture. Then in the poring rain we discovered a warthog giving birth in a gully/ drain going under the road. The babies were all shivering and soaking wet as the gully had filled with water from the storm. Kim held little hope for their survival, but the mother warthog couldn’t move as she was giving birth. It was terribly sad to see, as the huge thunderstorm raged on. Our arrival at Ronjo was at the end of one storm only to be followed by several more. Becky, one of the guests from last night, had already arrived. We were shown to our tent using large umbrellas; and there was hot water and a cosy feeling under canvas. Dinner at 19.30 - tom soup, chicken with rice, honey pancakes; Serengeti beer and chat with Becky about her anthropology and archaeology. I was able to plug in the Palm and with the keyboard attached I typed up the days excitement. Then bed at nine.<br />
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laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-64940840248369672262008-10-03T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-18T17:24:25.723+00:00Day 3<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/_2dQTo1eD7o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
We were woken at 6 am and after quick ablutions we were sitting round the breakfast table. Fruit, toast and eggs and sausage for some! 7.30 saw us setting off on our climb; Alex and Christiana with their Maasai guide and Alan and I with Kitemi who is ours. We also had to have a ranger with us as we could encounter lion and buffalo as we climb. For me it was tough from the outset. I just couldn't settle to a rhythm and had to stop quite often. Eventually, Kitembi carried my camera bag and I managed a lot better, especially as we slowed the pace a bit – Christiana was also relieved! We saw a little Dikdik bounding across ahead of us; and then several eland crossed the track ahead of us. It took us three and a half hours to get up the first peak. The views were fabulous, right down into the Serengeti and Lake Eyosi where the special bushmen, the Wahadzabe, live. Soon we were on our way again, dropping a little way down into the montaigne forest. Here we saw wild pig, buffalo, bushbuck and Eland. We had spotted buffs and eland on the way up, along with a Martial eagle. The path wound round and before long we had reached the second and higher peak - Mt Makarot summit (3130m). Now we could see so much - looking into the depression. Panorama pics were taken so I hope that works. There were two kites flying around below us. Now we had to hurry down as we were behind schedule. Alan managed very well and we stopped a few times before reaching the Maasai Bomas. Here the women had gathered to sell us their traditional beadwork. We already have some at home, but bought a crude carving of an elephant. Christiana chose some bracelets for her sister (12). Off again across the little plateau and into the gorge. At the end were tantalising views of the Serengeti. We, at last, stopped for lunch around 1pm, under some trees just a bit above the path. At the end of lunch, a herd of Maasai cattle came by and I thought we would have to follow them all the way down. They were kicking up lots of dust. Wrong again, as we set off then took a slightly up hill path to the left. The leader told us that it was another 4hrs to meet the cars, which was a huge surprise. We quickly calculated that it would be nearly 6pm before we stopped. They hurried us on as we could see a storm blowing in. The temperature dropped as the wind got up and as we reached the top of the climb and turned the corner to come down, it started to thunder. As we walked we watched a storm sweep across the plain, but well away from us. On this route down we saw Gazelle, Guinea Fowl, Baboon, Zebra as well as Maasai goats. Suddenly we could see dust trails coming across the plain - our vans racing to meet us, but it was only just after 3pm. It dawned on us that 4hrs meant four o'clock! On we plodded and all at once, there were the vans, just below us and it was only 3.35. Everyone was very happy to be down -handshakes and hugs all round, and we piled into the vans for the drive up to Oldavai Lodge. On the way, we spotted Grants and Thompson gazelle, a Kori bustard, a bat eared fox and some ostrich. The female ostrich was sitting on her nest, looking just like a rock or large anthill.She ran off as the van approached - poor thing! But we got to see her nest and the ten eggs she was incubating. Then we raced on and managed the hairy four wheel drive up to our beautiful tented camp. We have showered and shaved and sorted out a bit. Dinner at 7.30 was with Alex and Christiana, a couple from Cheshire and Becky, an American anthropologist. We also had the company of rock hyrax just outside, and some people saw a genet. We had Kilimanjaro beer with dinner, which included some local beef – a rather tough variety, but some good veggies – although too many carrots for Alan’s liking! Another starry night.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-78989385612548508512008-10-02T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-18T17:46:00.496+00:00Day 2We set the alarm for 6am in the hope of seeing Kili before the cloud came up. Sadly the cloud had gathered overnight, so no view. Breakfast was in the dining room, with open sides and lots of birds flying about. Alan left his croissants on the table to collect some spread and jam and the superb starlings flew down in numbers and pecked them! We threw them on to the veranda and many SS and sparrows came down for them, as well as a pied crow. We watched a pair of heron flying around, trying to land on an agave spike, then a rat dashed out from beside the building much to everyone’s surprise, to have a nibble of the bread! There were lots of sunbirds among the garden plants, too.<br />After breakfast we set off with Kim, into Arusha (40km) to collect lunch boxes. We had to stop on the way out of the airport to watch a crowned eagle just by the road. Then it was a longish drive to Lake Manyara Park. Kim signed us in and so began our game drive. Almost immediately we saw elephant in the bushes - forest ellies that climb up the hillsides. These hillsides are covered with baobab trees – some very old, very tubby looking ones, too. We had seen some fresh water crabs in the springs, by the roadside as we entered and slightly further on, we spotted a silver cheeked hornbill in a bare tree. There were also blue monkeys in the trees by the road. Just one to start with, then we realised that the leafy tree was full of them. A bush buck was hiding in some more trees.<br />We drove out of the trees onto the plain and there was a herd of Maasai giraffe - about ten, some 'necking', while several seemed very concerned about something in the bush. Alan wondered if it may have been a lion, but Kim wasn't sure. We continued along the road and some black faced vervet monkeys came dancing across the road. We followed them a little way then turned off to the hippo pool. Here were tens of hippos basking in groups on the far bank with some in the water. There were also several really young ones. In amongst the hippos were lots of birds; pelican, goliath heron, grey heron, Egyptian geese, little egret, ox peckers, yellow billed storks, white ibis, glossy ibis, a pratincole, cormorants and shrike. Then we spotted a spoonbill and a yellow billed stork sifted the water side by side. ‘Just good friends’.<br />Time had flown by and it was time to drive across to the picnic spot for lunch. On the way we found the road blocked by a basking silver cheeked hornbill, enjoying the warmth of the earth in the middle of the road and not keen on moving on! We watched some antelope and some monkeys while waiting for it to move. Then a little further along we had to pull over as a male elephant was strolling down the road. We kept very quiet, remembering a similar experience in South Africa, when a male elephant threatened to turn over our vehicle; but this time, it was quite friendly and just quietly walked by our silent van!<br />
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There were quite a few vehicles parked at the picnic spot, but soon Kim had our lunch set up at a table with a view across to the lake. It is a soda lake or magadi, and as we were taking in the view, we realised that the pink bands across the lake were flocks of flamingos. There were also lots of superb starlings close by and two lovely, gaudy red and yellow barbets. A large tree some distance away was occupied by a great big baboon which kept roaring/ coughing. We also saw more elephant and impala. A party of school children arrived and we lent them the little binos for a while, which was great fun. As we still had a long drive up to Oldavai, we set off again, stopping to see a troop of baboons beside the road to the park exit. We were so close that we could hear them chomping.<br />Out of the park, we headed up the road on the way to the Ngorongoro crater rim, passing through several small towns where we saw several different tribes of people. Apparently there are about 126 different tribes with their own culture and language. Their lingua franca is Kiswahili and many people also speak English. Eventually we stopped at a view point looking down into the crater. It is huge and there is a soda lake, several swampy areas and streams. We could pick out buffalo, elephant, rhino and antelope, (at least, that’s what Kim told us) - but all very small and distant. The last bit of drive was to our camp in the hills above some Maasai villages. We have an igloo tent, a chemical loo, a dining tent and some neighbours. They are a young couple on honeymoon, English/Swedish and very jolly. We will walk with them tomorrow. Dinner was soup (green veg), beef stew with spuds and mixed veg and cake with oranges. The lads had cold beers. Then we sat around the campfire as it got quite cold and windy. There are lots of stars, the Milky Way and a very new moon.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3828393369561626793.post-69933910096156142522008-10-01T22:00:00.000+01:002014-02-18T15:50:54.945+00:00Day 1We were up at 3.30 ready for Paul to collect us at 4.30. When we got to Heathrow we tried the Priority Lounge - a bit basic, but right by our gate, so boarding was very simple. After one false start when we had to go back to T4 as one passenger was taken ill, over an hour later we started again with lots of worried people with onward connections like us. We were OK as the Kili flight was leaving from a nearby gate. The flight was very busy and it took us about 8hrs to fly down to Tanzania. We managed to watch Prince Caspian, between snoozes. So now we have collected our bags; met our driver/guide, Kim who has brought us to Kia Lodge, a typical African lodge with bungalows set in gardens that are within the airport area. Our vehicle seems to be a ten seater landcruiser; ochre yellow and high off the ground. Kim says we can just keep moving around the seats for a change of scene. The seat belts seem a bit battered and I couldn't release mine when we got to the lodge. Alan came to the rescue! The sky is so clear and full of stars and there are lots of bats flying around and geckos running up and down the walls. We have a spacious room with mozzy net, a/c and an en suite shower. Dinner is seafood mousse followed by stuffed zucchini with white rice. We finish off with banana fritters! Alan is starting on the Coke already, but I'm sticking with water after the flight. The cicadas are chirping and it’s just as you always remember Africa.laughing magpiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06320480428194715014noreply@blogger.com0